Friday, 27 November 2020

m is for...

M is tough. Have you noticed how the coolest city in a lot of countries starts with M? Manchester, Mumbai, Milan - all great cities. Marseilles, Munich, Mexico City - it's getting embarrassing now. Moscow? How cool is Moscow? Real cool, but...

It's going to come down to Montreal and Melbourne. 

The case for Melbourne: So painfully cool: amazing coffee in amazing alleys with amazing street art. 

Montreal, though? Once you escape the poutine-filled old town, it's painfully cool. Everywhere looks like an art gallery. I saw Jazzy Jeff DJ a street party. That's cool right? Less penguins than Melbourne, but more croburgers. 

M is for Montreal

Tuesday, 15 September 2020

N is for...

New York. Obviously. 

N is for New York. 

I mean, New Orleans, you deserve a mention. But, you know...

So that's North America in the table. Who wants to look at the continent stats at the half way point? No one? Tough:
Europe: 5
Asia: 4
South America: 2
Africa: 1
North America: 1

O is for...

So some letters are easy because there is a real stand out city. Others are tough because there are several world class cities that you have to choose between (let's call it the RioRome dilemma). Other letters are tough because there's no standout city. O is one such letter. A case where the city doesn't so much win as not lose. 

I mean, Oslo: really pretty, but so eye-wateringly expensive that if I gave it the letter I would be sick in my mouth. Ottawa: really good museums and some half decent sights, but somehow manages to be entirely soulless. 

Which pretty much leaves Ouagadougou. Now, I really liked Burkina Faso, although that had next to nothing to do with the capital; Bobo, the second city, is far more charming. But when I got to Waga I was still on a Burkinabe high. Crocodiles, hyenas and a whole heap of takeaway yoghurt did just enough to keep me smiling, and get Africa its first city on the board. 

O is for Ouagadougou 

Sunday, 23 August 2020

P is for...

So normally I talk about a city that it isn't (but by most best of city lists, it probably should be), then curveball at the end to spring in a city that has some personal meaning for me. 

So in this case, the obvious one is Paris; the curveball is probably gonna be Philadelphia, right? Philly cheese sandwiches trumping the Eiffel Tower? Nah. 

P is for Phnom Penh. I have a lot of time for Cambodia and whilst most Cambodia's tend to focus around Siem Reap, for me it was PP all the way. Insect eating, stray elephants and the most crazy introduction to any city so far (no offence Cologne, you came close). Yes, the sites in Paris are bigger and better. Yes, it's easier and you know what's happening. But the smell of Phnom Penh just makes me happier. 

P is for Phnom Penh. 

Saturday, 22 August 2020

Q is for...

Have you ever been Quebec, loading timbers on the deck...

I know I rushed Quebec, so maybe I just didn't do it justice but, it just never, you know... 

Quito on the other hand. That's a city that grabs you. I guess it's forever tied up for me as the end of a big adventure, so I have a fondness that it's overgrown and slightly shady aura doesn't necessarily deserve. But still. Mountain tops, karaoke and one of the best meals I've eaten - even without a large dollop of sentiment it beats Quebec. 

Q is for Quito and South America has its second city on the list. 

Thursday, 16 January 2020

R is for...

Well Rio de Janeiro, obviously, the biggest party in the world. Copacabana. Ipanema. Maracana. Christ the Redeemer. Sugarloaf Mountain. So many world renowned things in one city, plus who wouldn't want to be sipping Caipirhinas on the beach right in the city centre. 

Oh hello Rome. Whats that? Two thousand years of history? The Forum. The Colosseum. The Spanish Steps. The Trevi Fountain. The (never mentioned but utterly spectacular) Tomb for the Unknown Soldier. Yeah you may have a point. Plus you have a whole country inside you? Well that's just showing off. 

Rio or Rome? Rome or Rio? Two unarguably world class cities. Which will it be? R is for...

Riga? Really? 

Yes. This is my list. And I had an amazing time in Riga. I know I went before the stag do boom. I've heard it's hideous now. But when I went it was brilliant. It doesn't have the world class sites of Rio or Rome. But I preferred it. Don't know why, but I did. So there. 

R is for Riga. 

S is for...

So here's where it gets difficult. There are a lot of very cool cities beginning with S. 

Singapore, Seville, Santiago, Sydney, all cities that I would head - and indeed have headed - back to. And I really liked Skopje. And Shanghai. And St Petersburg. Plus I've never been to San Diego and a lot of people rave about that. What about Seoul? And Samarkand has been on my to do list for years...

But it's going to come down to two: 

San Francisco was one of my first city explores so would probably get a mention for fondness' sake even if it was, erm, Surabaya. It's not. It's ace. It has towers. It has neighbourhoods. It has Alcatraz. It has that bridge. It has sealions. I sort of wanted to dislike it (it was first US city at a time when I was rebelling against things rather than the cog in the capitalist wheel that I am nowadays) but it was great. 

Stockholm blew my mind. It's one city. On seventeen islands. How does that work? Who thought that would be a good idea? It makes it seem super airy - the airiest city I've been too. Maybe the one where water was the most dominant too. A proper wallet-busting capital city but completely in tune with nature. 

It's a tough call. But. S is for S... 

Hang on one cotton pickin' minute. Neither of those cities explode your world view in the way Sarajevo does. A city in a city in a bomb-ravaged carcass of a city. It's a place like nowhere else. That tunnel, those roses; and still it has heart. 

S is for Sarajevo and it's not even close. 

Friday, 15 November 2019

T is for...

I liked Tirana a lot. I know I shouldn't, but I did. The biggest sword in the world. A decrepit pyramid. Utilitarian buildings painted in patterns. Bomb shelters. Buses that made no sense. The kind of street vendors that you get in Asia, but in Europe. What's not to like? 

But to take Tirana over Tokyo is just contrary for contrary sake. The sheer mindmelt of Tokyo was something else. I generally didn't know what I was eating at any time, often I didn't know for sure whether it was animal or vegetable (I guess I'm fortunate that I'm not too fussy, finding out that you have just ordered a plate of raw horse may be a bit distracting for some people). 

And that's just the food, that's not even the places: Shinjuku, Harajuku, Tsukiji fish market, temples and monorails. Juxtapositions a-go-go. 

T is for Tokyo

Wednesday, 9 October 2019

U is for...

I really want U to be for Ulaanbaatar. I do. It's a capital city, so it deserves a mention but, well, no-one goes to Mongolia for a city break. Mongolia is about snow and mountains and plains and yurts. And Ulaanbaatar is largely incidental to that.

Utrecht on the other hand. Now that's a city you can city break too. It's bursting with Dutch character, somehow seeming way more Dutch than Rotterdam, and way more exciting than The Hague (as an aside, I always feel a bit daft calling it The Hague - Den Haag seems far more Right - but let's stick with the British names for the purposes of this distraction, otherwise madness lies: W for Vienna, K for Cologne, and etc).

Maybe I'm biased, I had a chum live in Utrecht for a bit, so I know it a fair bit better than Ulaanbaatar, but the whole (un)point of this is bias. So there.

U is for Utrecht.

Tuesday, 8 October 2019

V is for...

So Europe and Asia, neck and neck on two cities. Vienna and Varanasi are on the table, which one will take the lead?

Will it be the city that I visited at the end of backpacking round Eastern Europe, where I spent more in two days than I had in the previous two weeks? Well no. You left a bad taste in my mouth, Vienna. I appreciate that that was my fault and not yours. If I visited you now I would probably think you were ace. But I didn't. I visited you in my early twenties and thought you were expensive. And a bit dull.

Varanasi on the other hand... monkeys on the roof and burning bodies on the river banks. Great food, great lassi, loads of weird. One of my favourite cities in India. But it was busy. Unpleasantly busy. 

Oh hello Valparaiso. Look at you with your Chilean charm. With your culture and your poetry amd your funicular railways. I did like exploring you. Okay, you can stay. Looks like a new continent has entered the game.

V is for Valparaiso.

I should mention Vancouver, but I've not been, so it's not in the list.

Thursday, 3 October 2019

W is for...

Wellington and Washington. Two cities that have some really interesting bits - two of the best museums in the world (well the Smithsonian is like ten of the best museums on its own, but you know what I mean) - but ultimately feel a bit suited, a bit diplomatic and ultimately a bit soulless.

Which pretty much leaves Warsaw out there on its own. That's a city with soul - don't get me wrong, it's not as pretty as Wellington and it's not got the seen-that-on-telly familiarity of Washington but it's got that thing that you can't quite put your finger on.

W is for Warsaw.

Sunday, 8 September 2019

X is for...

X was always going to be for Xi'an. Not too much pondering required for that one. I'm not certain I've even heard of another X city - are there some in Mexico? I think so, but none that anyone has ever recommended to me.

Despite that, I did like Xi'an. I went for the pottery soldiers, and came away just really liking the city. The snow was crazy, the clearance crazier, the dumplings were everywhere and you could cycle on the city walls. Where else can you do that? Try and do that in Chester and you'll be tsked right off.

Plus Xi'an is somewhat immortalised for being laughed at by locals for eating weird meat off a barbecue. I think it was a ram's personal area. And if eating sheep penis doesn't make you like a city what does?

And yes,  you're right. I have started at this end of the alphabet because I thought it would be easier. Umming and Aahing because I couldn't decide between Arequipa and Asuncion (bad example, my experience of Arequipa was eating Domino's whilst racked with food poisoning whereas Asuncion was all about karaoke and pirate bar. Asuncion wins hands down - but you know what I mean), whereas this end of the alphabet the cities are fewer and further between. Or all in China. Either way:

X is for Xi'an.

Y is for...

Yichang was my first Y city, which was one of the last gaps in my city alphabet. I was never really happy with Yichang though, it didn't feel city-y enough. Have you heard of it, no of course you haven't. Now in it's favour Yichang is bigger than Leeds, but it's in China, so most villages are bigger than Leeds. It was massive, but had the feel of a provincial market town.

What I needed was a proper, culturally significant Y city.

Yogyakarta, the soul of Indonesia, with its temples, its gudeg and its extreme spiciness. That's a good Y, right? Well yes, but we could do better. How about if an internationally significant megalopolis, chock full of streetfood and pagodas, got its capital status revoked and its name changed so that it begins with Y? Thank you Rangoon.

Y is for Yangon.

Here's a Travellercliche in Y city fact for you. Avocado smoothies are lovely. But I've only had them twice (they're not readily available, presumably because they sound weird): once in Yangon, once in Yogyakarta. Maybe Y should be for avocado smoothie.

Z is for....

I went to Zurich off the back of a list. It was a "best cities in the world" list and it came second after London. I went there, and it was pleasant enough with its raclette and its crystal fairy lights. But holy moly was it expensive. I heard it was expensive and went braced for London-prices-plus. I felt violated when it was double-London-plus. So Z is not for Zurich.

Zagreb, now that's a proper city. My first accidental visit (we missed a rail replacement bus - evidently just round the corner has a different meaning in Croatia) gave me enough to leave me wanting more.

My second visit bookended one of my most ramshackle backpacking trips. The stolen bag / Transylvanian lightning strike / wrong flight one - it preceded this blogging lark, so you probably don't know about it. But Zagreb was ace. An oasis of only-slight-abnormality, compared to the fist-in-the-air bonkers of the rest of the trip. Great vibe, great city.

Z is for Zagreb.

Saturday, 9 March 2019

The Rules of The Game

Who doesn't like pointless lists, where people rank things in a self-indulgent way? It means that the person doing the ranking gets to be as self-important as they want to be. Plus it means that everyone else gets to take offence because that person knows nothing. What an idiot.

Who doesn't like the neatness of pointlessly putting things in alphabetical order? Everyone likes things in an order, right?

So let's run with this. Let's take an alphabet and fill it with pointlessly ranked things. Shall we start with Cities? Seems like a good place to start. Does mean that we will need more rules.

What is a city? Should be nice and easy. In the UK the Queen has a list. But that list includes places like St David's that are barely villages. So we can't use a formal definition. I feel like to be a city a city needs to feel like a city. Does that make sense? Ideally it would have some level of international significance, but just a certain city-ness will do me.

Do we need more rules? I've got to have been there. That one's obvious. It would not be anywhere near self-indulgent enough otherwise.

No English Cities? Let's throw that in.

Only one city from each country? That feels like a rule I may get bored of and just start ignoring.

Oh and my decision is final. If I accidentally cause offence by saying that the city you live in isn't as good as, say, Bamako. Not my fault, you should live somewhere better.

Let's do this...